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Introducing – Organic Dutch Belted Cow’s Milk Cheeses!

I’ve been talking a lot about the new milk the Creamery is getting to make our Cheshire and thought I’d write up a quick explanation of what makes it special. I was persuaded to share with all, but this comes with a warning that this comes with a geek warning that it may well be more information than most care for.

The milk comes to us from a farm in Westphalia (northwest of Lansing) owned and operated by Andy Schneider and family. Andy has a herd of Dutch-Belted cows which are extremely rare in the U.S. (there are slightly more than 200) The Dutch Belted cow provides milk that is high in butterfat and protein and the butterfat globules are small which makes it ideal for cheese makers. Originating from the Alps, the Dutch-Belted cows gained great popularity in Scandinavia until finally being introduced in this country.

So while the breed of cow is extremely important to cheese making, it is only part of the story. When I first started to learn about cheesemaking, I had the opportunity to work with a great cheese maker in Wales who taught me the most important lesson I ever learned (he was also quite drunk at the time) but he grabbed me by the collar in a remote pub and said, “making great cheese is easy, get the best quality milk you can, then you try not to screw it up too much.” (I’ve actually edited his comment for family reading).  The point is that everything we do other than give it to a calf is bad for the milk. The best cheese makers do the least amount of damage.

Much of the damage comes from the dairy infrastructure that has evolved to provide inexpensive milk. Poor animal health, pumping milk, sloshing around in tankers and environmental conditions have all contributed to the quality difficulties. While not short term economically sound, Andy Schneider follows an entirely different course to produce a milk that is significantly better than the norm. The calves are provided their mother’s milk for ten months or until the mother kicks them off the teat, the Creamery only gets the excess that the calves can’t drink. (This is the distinction of a dairy cow vs meat cattle-the dairy cow produces more milk than the calf can take in) In the interest of economy, dairy farmers usually put the calves on formula and sell all the milk. Giving them the milk that was intended for them creates an extremely healthy herd and allows for cows that the Schneiders milk well into their teens. Healthy cows equal healthier milk.

Andy milks once a day. Again, this adversely impacts the amount of milk the cow yields, but it’s healthier for the animal. Carbon is spread over the fields to assist in filtering out toxins from acid rain. The cows are pastured as long as the fields will support them giving the milk more flavor.

Finally, the milk is transported in ten gallon milk cans which avoids the damage that pumps cause through agitation. (After lifting thirty 120 lb milk cans, I’ve gained an appreciation as to why the pump gained popularity)

We are only able to get milk this milk for another month, then because the calves are biggr and the milk production drops, the calves will get it all. The milk will not be available again until mid June.

The Cheshires from this certified organic milk will be available from December 16 until supplies run out. We are producing about 15 per week so we expect to have the cheese until the end of March.

If you have any questions or would like more information please feel free to contact us anytime!

All the best,

John

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Room Temperature

Of the most frequently asked questions we get in the Cheese Shop, few top how to store cheese at home.  While this is of obvious importance, I always take this chance to plug what I think might be even more significant: how to best eat the cheese.

One of the very first pieces I read when I came to the Creamery- the essay below, written by Zingerman’s Co-founder Ari Weinzweig, is all about how to best serve cheese, at room temperature.  It really is striking what a difference this one little step can make in the flavor of the cheese you serve.  I make it a rule to pull cheese out of my fridge a good half-hour before it is to be noshed.  And for much of the year I leave most cheeses I bring home on my kitchen counter under a glass dome.  This gives me ready-to-eat cheese at all times (albeit I may have a slight cheese-addiction).

Anyway, without further ado, here is Ari’s piece entitled:

Serving Cheese at Room Temperature

Even though I know fully well that cheese tastes better at room temp than it does right out of the cooler, I’ve been reminded of this issue a lot of late and I figured I’d be smart to actually say what I’ve been thinking so others can share in it. So, as you know, cheese tastes better at room temperature. While the difference is marked with any cheese, the increase in flavor is even bigger when you’re working with really great, full flavored artisan cheeses as we are.

My own experience with this have come from recently tasting two of the Creamery’s cheeses – Bridgewater (the double cream cow’s milk laced with Telicherry black peppercorns) and the Lincoln Log (a Bucheron-style log of goat cheese aged for about four weeks) – when they were cold and then, not long thereafter, tasting them again when they were at about room temperature. I didn’t plan to do any experiment or anything – it just sort of happened by coincidence. But, even knowing that there should be a big difference between the cold cheese and the warmer one, I was still blown away by just how much more interesting the cheeses that we were tasting at room temperature.

Mind you, it’s not like the cheese that’s cold is bad or inedible. It’s just that when we eat it that way, we really are missing out on about half the flavor, if not more. Eating cheese at 35°F is like eating potatoes without salt – you certainly get the idea, but you’ll never grasp the true greatness of the food. Getting cheese to the right temperature is always worth the few minutes of advance work it takes. It really just tastes infinitely better that way.

That’s not the whole story though. Because my belated glimpse of the obvious about the room temperature thing is that it’s particularly critical when we’re tasting NEW cheeses. I mean it’s always important. But there’s far less of a long term consequence when people eat a cheese that they know well but is being served cold because they’ve usually already decided that they like the cheese and aren’t really making a life call on whether or not it’s a cheese they’re going to eat again. BUT when people try a new cheese – like a new restaurant – they’re coming at their eating experience a bit skeptically. And when that first experience is suboptimal they’re likely to never return to try the new cheese again. After all, who needs another cheese? Answer, “no one.” There are plenty of good cheeses to go around.

So… what can we do about this?

Do our best to bring tastes of cheese that are already at room temperature. Or if we can’t, at least put things in context for the guest, by stating up front, “This is still sort of cold so the flavors may be a bit muted.” And once we’ve sold cheese it’s always worth reminding our guests to let their cheese at home come to room temperature before they serve it there.

Seriously, the entire experience is radically altered depending on the temperature. So… please help everyone remember that it’s worth planning ahead a bit to make this happen… If you doubt this difference, do the experiment for yourself and see what you think. I’ll tell you that while the Bridgewater and the Lincoln Log were both very good when they were still cold, at room temp they were really fantastic. The texture opens up and becomes infinitely creamier on the tongue, lighter, flakey, fluffy, and the flavor is just so much bigger, smoother, more interesting.

Thanks Ari!

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